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Prabal Gurung, ready to wear, 2017
As NASA finds habitable planets outside the solar system, Trump’s presidency causes ripples through America, and the inevitable artificial intelligence takeover looms closer, Karl Lagerfeld presented timely commentary of our world at this year’s Paris Fashion Week.
The Chanel runway was set in the awe-inspiring Grand Palais with a white Chanel branded rocket standing on guard in the middle of the factory-like room. During the show, models draped in silver and black pantsuits strutted down the runway. In contrast to their avant-garde outfits, the models donned 1960’s era voluminous hair, Twiggy-inspired makeup, and lots of tweed. Their dark wraparound sunglasses contrasted playfully with the bouffants as if 2017 and 1960 were the same decade. As the show neared its end, the models encircled the Chanel rocket in the middle of the stage. The rocket took off amidst an explosion and smog, encompassing in its take-off just how far the human technology and imagination can go.
It’s hard to overlook the exploding rocket, conservative outfits with a nod to the 1960’s era, and the futuristic themes as a commentary on the state of our current environment. We are inherently nomadic, are looking to outer space for answers, are still grappling with racism, patriarchy, and women’s freedom of choice, all while on the edge of yet another technological disruption.
Karl’s comments on the human condition reflect how fashion can interpret and make sense of the world around us. Through the beautifully orchestrated fashion show, Chanel bridges the gap between science fiction, politics, fashion, and human nature. But Chanel isn’t alone in its endeavor to offer valuable insight about our society, the world, and political climate. Throughout history, fashion has served as a direct reflection of the human condition and designers use clothes as a medium of expression. Vivienne Westwood, Kawakubo, Chloe, Yves Saint Laurent, Diane von Furstenberg, and Marc Jacobs not only design beautiful clothes but are also innovators of their time.
As Marilyn Revell Delong stated, “fashion influence as a process of “collective selection” whereby the formation of taste derives from a group of people responding collectively to the ‘spirit of the times’.” The aforementioned designers embraced the culture and the spirit of their generation and translated that mood into clothes. And as such, their designs provide a snippet into the society, which encompasses the economic and social status of the times.
Fashion is important because by observing trends we can directly explain the economic and social mood of the decade. For example, during the early 1970’s, outfits were characterized by a colorful expression, retro fantasies, and influences of traditional African-American and Native American styles. The styles of this time aligned themselves with equality, anti-capitalism, and acceptance. And it is no wonder, considering the social atmosphere of the early 1970’s. The effects of the second wave of feminism, anti-war rhetoric, acceptance of woman in the workplace, and the emergence of LGBT rights were all evident in the clothes people wore and the new freedoms they shared.
One could also consider the emergence of blue jeans as a symbol of the change in lifestyle in the mid-70’s. Long gone were the days of stuffy business suits or formal clothing. Jeans epitomized the feeling of youth and freedom that more and more people in the 1970’s began to embrace.
Lemaire, ready to wear, 2017
Present day, our fashion trends are drawing away from athleisure and towards more “grown-like” and conservative styles. Trousers, skirts, pantyhose, silk blouses, statement tee shirts, and relaxed fit jeans are on the rise. In the Spring 2017 runway shows, the reigning styles had a self-empowered feel and a vintage twist, which resonates with the political mood of the country. Alexander Wang sent wide trousers down the runway, Haider Ackermann’s model’s donned “Be Your Own Hero” message tees, and the longer skirt hems as seen in the Jil Sander’s show were a throwback to the early 70’s fashions and social unrest. It’s interesting to note how in our current political climate dominated by oppressive right wing ideologies, statement tees that read, “The Future is Female” or “People are People” are popular both on the runways and on the streets. The fashion trends of 2017 reflect modern day feminism and the fight for equality for all. Designers are embracing comfortable and loose outfits over tight fitting options. Hair and make-up have become less polished and is gravitating towards more natural, relaxed, and beautiful.
Women are rejecting systematic patriarchal and racist oppression's. Daily, they are fighting against sexual objectification in the workplace and otherwise. Designers are echoing this feminist movement by producing more comfortable, sensible, and empowering clothes that fit everyday woman’s needs. As a reflection of our times, fashion is being dictated by the need for acceptance and by the rejection of the hold by oppressive societies.
As turbulent times fuel creativity, fashion is important because it provides a window into the cultural and economic world it resides in. Fashion enables us to express our need for liberty and allows to showcase our beliefs. Be it in the gaudy 1970’s hot pants, a white rocket during a fashion show, statement tees, or turtlenecks of 2017, fashion allows for expression of self, a showcase of political affiliation, and self-examination. The importance of fashion lies in its ability to embody the atmosphere of the world we live in while promoting change. It’s hard to deny that without fashion our world would be a gray and less progressive place.